Sass & Bide once epitomized the spirit of indie sleaze, embodying youthful rebellion and carefree attitude. But here's where it gets controversial: as the brand attempts to mature, it seems to have lost sight of its original rebellious soul. For anyone who remembers the vibrant scene of 2008—those long-line singlets, milk crate hangouts, skinny jeans, and fedora hats—Sass & Bide was more than just a label; it was a cultural staple. And now, in a surprising twist, the label, owned by Myer, has announced that all its stores and online platform will be closed for several months. They shared this news on social media, emphasizing that 'it's never too late for reinvention.' The goal? To relaunch later this year with a fresh approach aimed at attracting new audiences.
Founded in 1999 by Brisbane-born designers Sarah-Jane Clarke and Heidi Middleton, Sass & Bide quickly skyrocketed to fame. They became renowned for their distressed denim, statement jackets with embellishments, and daring singlet-dresses that flaunted side-boob cuts. Their rise was meteoric, earning international acclaim and a celebrity following that included Beyoncé, Rihanna, Paris Hilton, Madonna, and others. Their success attracted the attention of retailer Myer, which acquired the brand twice—in 2011 and 2013—spending approximately $70 million. Both founders exited the company in 2014, with Middleton launching a new label called Artclub and Clarke venturing into jewelry design.
This hiatus will mark the closure of all Sass & Bide retail outlets by the end of January, including three standalone boutiques, 14 concession stands, and the online store. This move underscores a challenging period for Myer, whose share price has taken a significant hit over the past year. In response, the company is strategizing to appeal to a younger demographic, aiming to rejuvenate the brand while drawing on its storied heritage. A company spokesperson explained that Sass & Bide's reinvention would make the brand relevant to a new generation of consumers, leveraging the affection it continues to inspire.
Rebranding Sass & Bide with a focus on youth seems like a savvy move. Early on, the brand was practically synonymous with the rebellious, rebellious underground scene—linked to festival culture, the Laneway parties, and the aesthetics of the early social media eras like Myspace and Tumblr. Its iconic stovepipe jeans were favored by style icons such as Kate Moss and Alexa Chung, while the brand’s corsets gained popularity through stars like Taylor Swift. Trying to imagine indie sleaze without the brand’s signature “Rats” leggings, flowing vests, and high-waisted shorts is akin to envisioning punk music without Vivienne Westwood or pleated skirts without Issey Miyake.
However, recent collections tell a different story. Instead of the youthful and rebellious vibe, Sass & Bide now predominantly offers conservative blouses in pastel shades, pleated tailored trousers, and sensible twinsets—clothing more suited to the working wardrobe than the carefree festival scene. It suggests that the brand’s creative direction may have shifted away from its original edge, attempting to appeal to a more mature, perhaps more ‘grown-up’ audience, but this change seems to have alienated its core followers. The essence of its artistic DNA appears to be fading.
Heidi Middleton reflected on the brand’s origins, sharing with The Guardian Australia in 2023, “When Sarah-Jane and I launched Sass & Bide, we were young, fearless, and driven by our passion for fashion. The excitement and the global buzz around what we created was intoxicating. Sometimes it felt like we were swept along this wild ride rather than steering it strategically.”
With over 26 years of history—initially beginning as young designers selling embellished jeans from a street stall on London’s Portobello Road—a relaunch led by a fresh talent with an instinct for current trends and a commitment to authentic artistry could potentially revive Sass & Bide’s former glory. Especially considering the current high demand among teenagers and twenty-somethings for Y2K-inspired and rave aesthetics. But such a revival can only succeed if genuine creativity and originality remain at the forefront, rather than merely focusing on commercial appeal and product cycles.
So, is Sass & Bide truly on the brink of a vibrant comeback, or are we witnessing the end of an era rooted in rebellious roots? Would you prefer the brand to stay true to its original indie sleaze spirit, or embrace a more mature, mainstream identity? Share your thoughts in the comments—with fashion, as with everything, there’s always room for debate.
